Kyrgyzstan.

A beautiful, rugged, nomadic, challenging, and unforgettable destination. In 2023 a group of friends and I decided to visit this seldom visited part of Central Asia in the hopes of photographing it’s stunning and unique landscape. We did that, and so much more. I have never been on an adventure that I loved more. Nor one that was so rewarding. The trip definitely had some challenges, but these were completely insignificant compared to the rewards. During our time we…

Camped in the middle of nowhere under the Milkyway, Admired sunsets and sunrises over Mars-like canyons, Watched an eagle-hunter train his birds, Travelled hundreds of miles on rugged and stunning off-road tracks, were hosted by families in traditional Kyrgsz yurts, wild camped at almost 4,000m altitude with not a sole in sight. And that was just a fraction of it.

The aim of this post is to show you adventure-seekers how incredible a trip to Kyrgyzstan can be. And also to illustrate how a visit to this country should not be daunting, but exciting! So if you are thinking of going, allow me to break it down, and put your mind at ease. Here we go…

*Shot taken from plane on the flight into Bishkek*

Flights

Kyrgyzstan has three international airports. But Manas international airport (FRU) just outside the capital city Bishkek is by far the best option to fly to. It is the best equipped airport in the country, and Bishkek is certainly the most convenient place to start your journey from. There are more rental companies and travel agencies here than anywhere else in the country.

Flights to Bishkek from Europe tend to consist of at least two legs. We flew from the UK via Istanbul (IST) and the total travel time was between twelve and thirteen hours.

Permits

In my opinion, the most beautiful parts of Kyrgyzstan are near it’s borders. These regions tend to be more mountainous. Like the Tien Shan mountain range on Kyrgyzstan’s eastern border. However, you will need permits in order to visit some of these regions. We passed through several military checkpoints during our time there. Here are some things you ought to know…

Firstly, where to get them from. We purchased ours through the same company whom we bought our Kyrgyzstan Guide Book through, OunTravela. Here is a link to the webpage where you can buy permits for all 5 border zones: Get Your Permits.

*this is NOT an affiliate link

Secondly, if you are planning to visit these zones then it is recommended that you purchase your permits several weeks in advance to ensure they are ready to collect when you get there. We purchased ours roughly a month in advance.

PLEASE NOTE: We had to pick up our permits from a designated address in Bishkek when we arrived. This is normal practice. When you pick them up, you will need to show your passport so that the details can be verified. Then they will be given to you.

There is more information on permits in the Guide Book which you can find more information on further down.

Below are some photographs I took in regions for which permits were required…

Car Rental

This is a very important area. The road infrastructure in Kyrgyzstan is quite poor. Even some main roads between big cities can have large unpathed sections. And almost all of the most beautiful spots in Kyrgyzstan are only accessible by off-road tracks. Because of this, if you are looking to hire your own vehicle I would highly advise that you rent a tough 4x4. Some of the roads will really put your vehicle through it’s paces. And when travelling to very remote areas, the last thing you want is a lack of confidence in your vehicle.

The company we booked our car through is ‘Travel Experts’. You can find a link to their website by clicking here.

Through them you can book a rental car with or without a driver, depending on how adventurous you are feeling. Although I must say, we were a little anxious about driving ourselves everywhere without a driver or guide - but it’s no where near as bad as it might seem.

If you are looking for more information (including booking), Sergey the business owner is best contacted on WhatsApp: +996 554 000 660

We conversed with him a lot on both the lead up to the trip and during the trip itself and he was very responsive and helpful. If you do end up booking through them, please let him know that ‘Jordan’ recommended you . And if you do, be sure to contact me either through my website or social media to let me know, I’d love to hear from you.

*Please note that this company is an affiliation. This means that if you book, or arrange a purchase through my recommendation, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me continue to provide valuable content. I am only recommending this company because I personally used them and had such a good experience with the service they provided and their responsiveness.

Driving

Driving in Kyrgyzstan may be quite different to what you are used to. Here are some tips that will help you if you plan on driving there:

Drive on the right-hand side of the road.
Pay close attention to the speed limit, and the speed of other cars - we got a speeding ticket on our last day because of a sudden change of speed limit that was unmarked. If the cars around you suddenly slow down, make sure you do too.
When travelling on off-road tracks, be sure to utilise low-range gear if your car has one. In certain sections of road that are particularly rough, this will come in handy.
Keep your headlights on at all times. It is illegal for them to be turned off in Kyrgyzstan.
Have a full jerry can with your vehicle at all times - especially if you plan on going to some of the more remote areas such as Sary-Jaz. I would advise you to check with the rental company if this is something they can provide before you go.
Fill up with fuel whenever you get chance. We came across a lot of petrol stations which were either closed (even in the middle of the day), or you needed a local app to pay for (which we didn’t have). Therefore, whenever we had less than 3/4 of a tank and saw a filling station we could use, we filled up.
Take it easy and do your research with off-road routes. Some of the tracks have very challenging sections which you need to be careful with. The last thing you want it to be stuck in the middle of nowhere, with no signal, through your own careless driving. Each of the off-road routes are labelled from 1-5 based on difficulty in the Guide Book.
Accept that S**t happens. The roads in Kyrgyzstan can be very rough and demanding. One road we went down was so tricky it shook the wheel nuts off one of our wheels. Luckily the friendliness of the locals helped us out on this occasion. Ultimately (depending on where you go), Kyrgyzstan can be brutal for cars. Just drive carefully, and make sure you are as prepared as you can be.

Guide Book

When travelling to a country like Kyrgyzstan, a place that is very unfamiliar and difficult to find out much about, obtaining a reliable source of information is key. Especially when it comes to planning your trip. Admittedly, when we decided to plan a trip to Kygyzstan there was a small part of me that felt anxious.

Luckily though, we found this guide book by OunTravela. The book is written by a French couple who spent months travelling around Kyrgyzstan. And from there travels they have put together the most detailed, illustrative, and valuable book for anyone looking to visit Kyrgyzstan. This book is the sole reason why we decided to plan the trip on our own and not with the help of a driver or guide. Here are some of the things it delves into:

Hundreds of miles of off-road routes.
GPS routes you can programme to your phone so you always know where you are (signal is non-existent out in the rural areas and mountains).
Ratings of difficulty for each route.
Locations of military checkpoints where permits are checked.
Permit information.
Rental information (Motorbikes, 4x4s, Van, Bicycles)
Yurt & accommodation information information and locations.
Lengths and difficulty of hikes.
Altitude information.
Recommended gear to bring / hire.
Best times to visit.

And so much more! You can find my affiliate link here.

*Please note that this is an affiliate link. This means that if you click on the link and make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. As previously mentioned, your support helps me continue to provide valuable content and information regarding new and interesting places to travel. I have personally used this guide extensively and know it will provide you with tremendous value and confidence if you are planning your own trip to Kyrgyzstan. Thank you for your support!

Is it safe?

This is a question I have been asked a lot. There are definitely some stereotypes and bias around all the ‘Stan’ countries. And from my conversations with people it appears Kyrgyzstan is no exception.

However, despite this I can say that Kyrgyzstan felt totally safe to me. We walked around late in the centre of cities and towns, left our car unattended with all our stuff on show, and even made an impromptu visit to a gun range. We did not have any trouble the entire time we were there, nor did we ever feel threatened.

Some of the military checkpoints were a little unnerving. But I’m from the UK. And we’re not exactly used to military personnel approaching us with AK-47s in hand… So that might explain it.

In summary, the Kyrgsz people are extremely hospitable and friendly. To me it didn’t feel any more unsafe than anywhere in Europe. Honest opinion.

Other helpful tips

Here are a few other things that should help you prepare for your trip to Kyrgyzstan:

Take cash. Card payments are rare in Kyrgyzstan, and non-existent outside the big cities. We withdrew cash with our cards when we got there.
Take dollars (USD). It is not unheard of for tourists having to bribe the Police in Kyrgyzstan to get out of minor infractions. Some accommodation also accept dollars as payment so it’s good to have some just in case.
Buy a SIM card at the airport. This saved us a lot of time. We literally walked through passport control and there were people selling SIM cards with unlimited data for about $20 (£15). It’s unlikely your current data roaming plan will cover Kyrgyzstan… Obviously.

If there is anything else you want to know about Kyrgyzstan, the Guide Book should be able to answer any questions you may have. Or feel free to contact me through the Contact Page or through my instagram page @Jordlg.

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Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide